Adore Magazine Singapore
Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair
The Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair faced another record breaking year — with over 200 more exhibitors than 2010, this is the biggest in the trade show’s history. The number of participating countries was also at its highest, with 46 countries and regions covered, and floor space peaked at over 130,000sq m. France made its debut at the fair with its own pavilion while Thailand held the achievement of the biggest overseas pavilion with more than 150 exhibitors.
COLOUR AND PEARLESCENT
As expected Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair’s window provided a broad sweep of trends across the globe, some that have been wielding an influence for a couple of years now. Nature continues to inspire, from the most delicate, gemstone-free renderings recalling trailing stems to louder expressions like fluorescent-hued dragonflies. Coloured gemstones saw some of the busiest activity at the materials section and comprised show-stopping pieces at the Fine Design section, affixed with rare and highly valued coloured diamonds. Large-sized, high-clarity, yellow and orange-yellow types were particularly
sought-after. The likes of high-end brands like Tiffany and Chopard rolling out coloured diamond collections, Chinese interest in unique diamonds and the already limited supply of these gemstones are keeping demand and prices strong. Conch/Melo pearls are also creating buzz with a beauty and rareness that makes them so desirable. Their presence was observed in both finished pieces and the vintage sector, the latter of which swelled noticeably this year with highend international booths and a constant stream of visitors.
IMPECCABLE CREDENTIALS AND EXQUISITE RARETIES
A standout visit this year from international antique/curatorial dealers included New York’s highly esteemed Siegelson (established 1920) in the Fine Design section. Its cabinets displayed one of the greatest pieces of 20th century American jewellery design: A circa 1935 aquamarine and ruby necklace in the form of a belt with a buckle, designed by Verdura for Paul Flato and formerly in the collection of Linda Porter, wife of Cole Porter. Paul Flato was in his prime during the glamorous heyday of Hollywood in the ’30s and ’40s and his salon was frequented by the likes of Joan Crawford, Marlene Dietrich and Vivien Leigh. The necklace appears on the cover of the new book Paul Flato: Jeweler to the Stars, and inspired Karl Lagerfeld’s Paris-Byzance Pre-Fall 2011 collection’s belt embroidered with stones. The rare opportunity to view this necklace had a gasp-inducing effect for good reason. The magical re-releases of mid-century pieces by the legendary Seaman Schepps (established in the 1890s), also from New York, were another joy to behold nearby.
FAST-FORWARD FUTURE
Platinum, the king of metal, was featured in many contemporary ranges. New Zealand brand The Inspired Collection, displayed originality with its platinum wedding and masculine options. The reception of each unique piece shows that with gold reaching similar price levels, a platinum purchase is more achievable than ever before, especially when bolstered by a very modern aesthetic.
Ian Douglas from The Inspired Collection, says: “Platinum has several benefits over white gold; it’s more dense, lasts longer, doesn’t require plating and provides a more durable piece for the customer. The difference between white gold and platinum is because it takes more time and expertise to craft a platinum item; now that the comparison price with gold is more favourable, more people are making the move to platinum.”
Another metal that was on the purchasing list of buyers was titanium. While a different price-point altogether, the material is also ideal for futuristic concepts and allows layered accessorizing. “Titanium brooches are so lightweight that you can wear two pieces together,” says Claire Lin from Taiwan’s Sunflower Art.
CRUCIAL CUT-OUTS
Statement rings have been staples in recent years, but the Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair put the spotlight on the drama of the nape. Bold neckwear took on architectural dimensions and there was also an interesting use of space or air in the minimalist designs. These openwork or hollow pieces filtered through to rings, with The Inspired Collection’s What’s The Point, a highlight with enough of an edge to see it find its way into Katy Perry’s jewellery box when she went on tour in New Zealand
